We followed the moon to Hearson's Cove, apparently the best spot for seeing the ‘Stairway to the Moon'. People lined up along the beach to capture the light darting across the tidal flats and the ocean with their tripods and SLR cameras. This white light, on what was promptly becoming a greyscale landscape, felt like a cleansing and pleasant end to the evening. However when turning around, looking to leave, I was awestruck and horrified to see a second moon rising in the north. In the muted landscape the orange/yellow moon of the Pluto Plant flame will remain the image that sums up the trip and this place: an image of the industrial sublime; a spectacle of lights.